snomhf
11th January 2007, 06:20 AM
This is my second design of a dual-stage trigger for the CH FighterStick. My first attempt at this consisted of placing two switches together and trimming the internal posts of the trigger to cause one switch to be pressed before the other. The problem was you couldn't feel the clicks and because the trigger didn't move, you didn't get a very good feel for when the switches were pressed. This new design allows the trigger to move about 1/4" before it reaches the second stage. When the first stage bottoms out, you feel and hear a definite click when the second stage switch fires. Very nice.
Unless you want to install another joystick circuit board to provide the secondary switch, one easy method is to move the pinky button (which I tend not to use because it's too easy to hit it by accident) and use it for the secondary stage. Here is a step-by-step on how to build this trigger.
Here are the parts you need to complete this project. I pulled the micro-button out of a Logitech circuit I had laying around. My daughter donated the hair clip.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/Parts.jpg
Other than the changes made to the trigger, the only other modification to the FighterStick involves cutting down the pinky button which will be used as the second stage of the trigger.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/Modifications.gif
Next, you solder two wires to the micro-button. I desoldered my button from an old Logitech joystick.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/MicroButtonComplete.jpg
The rear internal post of the trigger must be removed to make room for the installation of the micro-button.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/TriggerPostRemoved.jpg
Now we have to cut a notch away in the back of the trigger to allow it to pass the stop correctly inside the FighterStick so the second stage button can be reached.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/TriggerTrim.jpg
A slot is cut on the hinge end of the trigger to make way for the spring which will give the trigger the tension and movement as well as depressing the first stage button.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/TriggerSlotCut.jpg
A small machine screw will serve as a stop for the trigger. The head is cut half way off to provide the proper movement of the trigger. The screw can be turned slightly to adjust that movement.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/ScrewHeadCutoff.jpg
The screw is installed at the end of the trigger and will fit nicely in the crevice of the FigherStick at the bottom of the trigger.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/ScrewDrilling.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/ScrewInstalled.jpg
A lady's hair clip provides for the spring that gives the trigger its tension as well as pressing the primary trigger button. Here I'm sawing out a 2cm section of it which will be glued into the slot cut out in the hinge end of the trigger.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/SpringMeasure.jpg
----
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/SpringCutting.jpg
Next, mix up some epoxy putty and mash it down into the trigger then set the micro-button in the putty leaving just the top portion of the button extending above the surface of the trigger. The putty will also secure the spring into position.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/EpoxyPutty.jpg
---
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/EpoxyPuttyInstall.jpg
---
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/EpoxySwitchInstall.jpg
---
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/SpringInstall.jpg
Here is the trigger after all the mods have been made.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/FinalProduct.jpg
When installing the trigger, the spring will lock against the mounting bracket for the original trigger switch (now the secondary trigger button) and the screw fits neatly between the outer wall of the FighterStick and the stop post.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/Installation.jpg
The last mod to do is to trim the pinky button switch down to provide the trigger the 1/4" of movement it needs in this new configuration.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/PinkySwitchMod.jpg
This picture shows how much of the button is cut away.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/PinkyBeforeAfter.jpg
Finally, the wires on the original trigger switch must be removed and rewired to the micro-button inside the trigger. The two green wires are soldered to the green wire on the trigger switch and the blue wire is soldered to the other lead.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/TriggerWiring.gif
Since I play Aces High WWII combat game almost exclusively, I use the primary trigger for my primary guns (the side button [mode button] is my secondary fire button) and the second stage to fire "all" guns. This works great as I pull to the "stop" when I putting my guns on the target and squeeze it all the way to give him all I've got!
Hope you find this useful. Let us know if you try this mod and what you think. I'm very happy with how it works myself.
Unless you want to install another joystick circuit board to provide the secondary switch, one easy method is to move the pinky button (which I tend not to use because it's too easy to hit it by accident) and use it for the secondary stage. Here is a step-by-step on how to build this trigger.
Here are the parts you need to complete this project. I pulled the micro-button out of a Logitech circuit I had laying around. My daughter donated the hair clip.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/Parts.jpg
Other than the changes made to the trigger, the only other modification to the FighterStick involves cutting down the pinky button which will be used as the second stage of the trigger.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/Modifications.gif
Next, you solder two wires to the micro-button. I desoldered my button from an old Logitech joystick.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/MicroButtonComplete.jpg
The rear internal post of the trigger must be removed to make room for the installation of the micro-button.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/TriggerPostRemoved.jpg
Now we have to cut a notch away in the back of the trigger to allow it to pass the stop correctly inside the FighterStick so the second stage button can be reached.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/TriggerTrim.jpg
A slot is cut on the hinge end of the trigger to make way for the spring which will give the trigger the tension and movement as well as depressing the first stage button.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/TriggerSlotCut.jpg
A small machine screw will serve as a stop for the trigger. The head is cut half way off to provide the proper movement of the trigger. The screw can be turned slightly to adjust that movement.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/ScrewHeadCutoff.jpg
The screw is installed at the end of the trigger and will fit nicely in the crevice of the FigherStick at the bottom of the trigger.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/ScrewDrilling.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/ScrewInstalled.jpg
A lady's hair clip provides for the spring that gives the trigger its tension as well as pressing the primary trigger button. Here I'm sawing out a 2cm section of it which will be glued into the slot cut out in the hinge end of the trigger.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/SpringMeasure.jpg
----
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/SpringCutting.jpg
Next, mix up some epoxy putty and mash it down into the trigger then set the micro-button in the putty leaving just the top portion of the button extending above the surface of the trigger. The putty will also secure the spring into position.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/EpoxyPutty.jpg
---
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/EpoxyPuttyInstall.jpg
---
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/EpoxySwitchInstall.jpg
---
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/SpringInstall.jpg
Here is the trigger after all the mods have been made.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/FinalProduct.jpg
When installing the trigger, the spring will lock against the mounting bracket for the original trigger switch (now the secondary trigger button) and the screw fits neatly between the outer wall of the FighterStick and the stop post.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/Installation.jpg
The last mod to do is to trim the pinky button switch down to provide the trigger the 1/4" of movement it needs in this new configuration.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/PinkySwitchMod.jpg
This picture shows how much of the button is cut away.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/PinkyBeforeAfter.jpg
Finally, the wires on the original trigger switch must be removed and rewired to the micro-button inside the trigger. The two green wires are soldered to the green wire on the trigger switch and the blue wire is soldered to the other lead.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/snomhf/TriggerWiring.gif
Since I play Aces High WWII combat game almost exclusively, I use the primary trigger for my primary guns (the side button [mode button] is my secondary fire button) and the second stage to fire "all" guns. This works great as I pull to the "stop" when I putting my guns on the target and squeeze it all the way to give him all I've got!
Hope you find this useful. Let us know if you try this mod and what you think. I'm very happy with how it works myself.