View Full Version : Need imput on CH Fighterstick Mod
jortiz
14th January 2010, 03:32 AM
I have extended my CH Fighterstick and it seems that after I use it for a couple of hours I start to lose all input. My guess is a lousy soldering job by me or I'm not using the correct gauge wire. I noticed that the CH Fighterstick uses 26 gauge nine wire with 20/25 strand per wire. (not sure on this one). I would like to know what you guys have been using and what gauge wire to make the extension. Considering this is my first time modding a controller how critical is it to have a good solder joint? What procedure do you use to splice wires together? BTW when I hook it to the pc, I have no problem calibrating it in the Control Manager. All buttons and hats are detected and function properly. The problem starts roughly after two hours of play. My guess is HEAT. I used Cat 5e wire to make my extensions.
Thanks for your input and talent.:D
jortiz
16th January 2010, 07:45 PM
Here is an update. It seems that Cat 5 wiring is working after all. I have been playing IL2FBAEP all week long with no side effects.
Originally I started with a 6" long schedule 40 pipe 1/2" diameter. The wires I used were inadequate and gave me problems in the game. Also 6" extension was a bit too long. Too much throw for me. Although with the CH Control Manager software it was playable. I ended up with a 5" extension by using a coupler. This length is the ideal length for me. With the software it works extremely well. Thanks CH for a great product.:D
Here are a few pics.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z130/jortiz8_bucket/DSCN0693.jpg
This piece came from the end of a oil funnel. I had to shape it a bit with a knife by scraping it until it fitted into the handle. The top part was epoxied to the PVC pipe.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z130/jortiz8_bucket/DSCN0695.jpg
The oil funnel.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z130/jortiz8_bucket/DSCN0689-1.jpg
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z130/jortiz8_bucket/DSCN0690.jpg
Wires spliced up at the base of controller. I added tape to make the size match the inside diameter of PVC pipe.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z130/jortiz8_bucket/DSCN0694-1.jpg
Handle with adapter. Later I put a bed of epoxy underneath to conform to the shape of the adapter.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z130/jortiz8_bucket/DSCN0691.jpg
Test fitting the original 6" extension. I had to shape the bottom of the extension where it meets the base stub quite a lot. I had to use a Dremel tool to shape all four sides of the pipe. On the X axis I had to cut a small radius on each side so it would completely make full contact when moving left to right. I also had to undercut the inside of the PVC pipe as well so it would not be in the way. On the Y axis I had to remove material to allow it to move within the limits of the controller. Basically I ended up shaving a small amount of PVC.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z130/jortiz8_bucket/DSCN0697.jpg
Extension painted and attached to base stub. Also adapter attached to PVC pipe.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z130/jortiz8_bucket/DSCN0701.jpg
Original 6' extension painted with black Krylon paint.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z130/jortiz8_bucket/DSCN0702.jpg
This is what I ended up with. A 5" extension worked out really well for me. It is 19" off the floor to the very top of handle. I had to use a coupler because the bottom was epoxied to the base stub and I didn't want to damage it. So I opted for this remedy instead. The joystick is very easy to handle in this configuration. All I have left is to finish painting the coupler.
I hope this info helps someone wanting to modify their joystick. I actually purchased an extra Fighterstick off Ebay to make the modifications. I didn't want to ruin my original. I was very hesitant at first but having a spare joystick helped me overcome the fear or ruining the joystick.:)
Death-17
6th February 2010, 05:40 AM
Is 6" as far as you can go? I would like to make one that goes to the floor, more realistic. I have already fried my Saitek, but no loss really. I have a cyclic grip from a MIG 21 I would like to mod onto a stick. I'm wondering if I should try to do it with my CH or start from scratch with some pots?
Death-17
6th February 2010, 05:41 AM
Nice work by the way
jortiz
7th February 2010, 01:36 AM
Is 6" as far as you can go? I would like to make one that goes to the floor, more realistic. I have already fried my Saitek, but no loss really. I have a cyclic grip from a MIG 21 I would like to mod onto a stick. I'm wondering if I should try to do it with my CH or start from scratch with some pots?
Thank you Death-17 . I believe 6" might be the top end for a CH stick. The reason being that without the CH Control Manager the stick slack was really bad. But once I set the sensitiviy to 100 and set Gain to maximum, the stick handled very well. The only other problem left is how much you have to swing the stick on X axis. I am using the CH Pro Pedals and as you know the distance between the pedals does not lend itself very well to a traditional WWII stick. With this in mind I shortened it to 5" and as a result it is more responsive. Right now I am in the process of modding the Pro Pedals to a wider stance to allow for stick travel. Hope this helps. :)
Death-17
14th February 2010, 09:51 AM
I hear you on the pedals. I got Saitek and samething, they are too close. Let me know how the pedal mod goes. I'm waiting on my encoder board to see if my X52 Mod will work. I'm just using the base with the pots. The grip is actually out of a Mig 21 that I hacksawed out in 2003 in Iraq. I figured out which switches do what, the only thing that sucks is no tophat. I'll send pics when it's finished.
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